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TREES, PLEASE! Ten Common Myths of Trees – Need a Reminder?

5 hours ago
3 min read

By Robin Y Rivet, for Let’s Talk Plants! October 2026.

 


Myth #1: “Topping” and “Lacing” are valid arboricultural pruning terms… 


They are not. DO NOT TOP YOUR TREES! Topping is destructive tree mutilation. You won’t find either term in the older ANSI A300 tree care standards or the 2023 updates. Although heavy crown-reduction in orchards may appear to ease fruit harvesting, the wounds increase risk of disease, sun scald and incur yearly high-maintenance - assumed by a grower. The term “lacing” is quite fashionable today, but more often than not, it implies “lion-tailing” which removes far too many (or all) inner branches and foliage at once - causing canopy stress and increased risk of wind shear. Trees don’t make “extra” branches. DO NOT LACE or LION-TAIL YOUR TREES!


Myth #2: Buy the largest nursery tree you can afford


It is much wiser to purchase as small a nursery tree as you can find, as it will likely grow faster and be healthier in the long run. 1-5 gal. specimens usually catch up with boxed trees very quickly. Worse, large, containerized specimens frequently have compromised root balls which can thwart healthy growth, and subsequent root girdling might eventually kill your tree. Roots don’t “unwind” after planting.


Myth #3: Planting trees in deep round holes, helps create a “taproot”


Deep holes can actually kill a tree by sinking the root crown inducing root rot. Instead, dig a hole three times the width of your pot and slightly above grade so the highest roots are covered mostly by surface mulch. Round holes dug in compacted soils often mimic a container and also encourage circling roots, while feeder roots penetrate easier through the corners of square holes and then grow out laterally. Most vertical “taproots” eventually die from lack of oxygen in layered urban soils.



Myth #4: Amend the soil well - when planting a tree


Indeed, if you were a tender root, you might prefer to remain in friable composted soil, but trees are long-lived and healthy roots need to grow out and away from any planting hole, no matter how humble the native soil. Over time, dissimilar mixes can also cause perched water tables. Layering 3”- 4” inches of coarse wood chip mulch on top of the soil after planting will build tilth over time.



Myth #5: Trees need lots of water, especially applied near the trunk


Trees use little water compared to their size. They catch or deflect up to 30% of rainfall in their canopies, and up to 30% more can be absorbed by their roots. This process reduces storm-water runoff and erosion. When you do water a tree, the trunk should stay dry while the feeder roots near the dripline need water to penetrate throughout the entire root zone. 


Myth #6: Evergreen trees don’t lose their leaves


Deciduous trees lose all their leaves once a year (typically in fall, but in San Diego this varies); while evergreen trees generally shed them ALL YEAR. They both have their virtues. Do not select an evergreen tree for its lack of litter.



Myth #7: Stakes keep trees strong and straight


When a tree seed sprouts, it intuitively grows upwards and shouldn’t need staking. Crowded, spindly, nursery specimens, with lower limb removals may lean due to minimal trunk taper, but 1-gallon to 5-gallon container saplings seldom need any shoring. If you must add support stakes or root staples, consider them crutches, which should be removed after one season. Always detach any central nursery stake before planting a tree.


Myth #8: Trees need to be pruned regularly


In general, trees do not need regular haircuts. During the first three years some minor structural pruning may reduce the need for major corrective cutting later. If older limbs are dead, diseased, deformed or damaged, they can be pruned away, but otherwise cut sparingly. Deciduous fruit trees may respond to dormant pruning for increased fruit production, but species needs vary, so use restraint. And don’t apply wound sealers; they can impair healing.


Myth #9: Trees need regular fertilizer


Trees get 90% of their energy from the sun, but only 10% from soil. Organic mulches (like dropped tree leaves) are essential natural feeding systems for soil. Fruit trees sometimes benefit from additional macro or micro-nutrients, but please don’t feed an ailing tree.


Myth #10: Fruitless Trees reduce nuisance to the homeowner


Fruitless trees frequently are dioecious with abundant male flowers that can spread massive amounts of wind-blown pollen instead of fruit drop. Beware of this seldom revealed fact if you have allergies. Know your tree’s sex before planting!


       


Member Robin Rivet is a ISA Certified Arborist & UCCE Master Gardener - contact her: treetutor@gmail.com




  

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